The Pilgrimage to Austin

I walked into the shop with a mental list of must-have accessories, and walked out with an entirely different set of essentials. What changed my mind? A whirlwind tour of the art of shaving by Charles Roberts. Not only is Charles a wet-shaving enthusiast in a world of electric razors, and an importer of fine shaving goods from Europe, but he is also the developer of a systematic approach to shaving that aims at attaining the holy grail of grooming: the perfect shave. His own face, smooth as glass, is a testament to the technique's effectiveness, as are the chins and cheeks of the students he calls his "shavers." Charles combines the energy of an infomercial host, the passion of an evangelist and the literate elitism of a man whose niche serves the needs of the cognoscenti. His is the kind of personality that launches movements, so when he told me that wet shaving, unlikely as it seems, is going to emerge as the next big thing, I had a hard time doubting it.

       "You have a beard," Charles said right away. I admitted it. He told me that most beards do not look good, but because of my strong jaw-line mine was an exception. Still, he assured me, once I started shaving with his system, the beard would not last more than 30 days. It was as if, by keeping the beard, I was denying myself the pleasure of a full shave. That's how seriously Charles and his shavers take the art.

Before my trip to Austin, I had read Charles' essay on wet shaving, but my head was still full of what must be the usual misconceptions. My most cherished myth was that the essential implement of shaving is the razor. There is an undeniable mystique that surrounds the razor, and a man who, like myself, was raised on the electric cannot help feeling that he has somehow been denied access to the sanctus sanctorum of masculinity. Browsing the catalogs online, my eyes were drawn to the rows of razors--the Mach 3, the Sensor, the double-edged and of course, the gloriously threatening straight razor.

As Charles welcomed me into the store, my gaze shot immediately to the razors under the counter and in the cabinet over his shoulder. I had already decided on getting a Muehle-Pinsel shaving set in tortoiseshell. The set includes a razor, brush, stand and bowl, and costs $160. I would spend the rest of my cash on creams, soaps, aftershaves and anything else that caught my fancy. I expected to spend about $250 in all.

But Charles immediately burst my bubble when he insisted that the razor didn't matter at all. "You can shave with a shard of glass," he said, "as long as you get this and this right." "This" and "this" were hot water and a badger hair brush.

Now, if the romance of shaving were to pick an emblem, it would certainly be the straight razor; after all, it's hard to imagine a cult forming around the silhouette of a shaving brush. Yet the more Charles spoke, the more I realized that picking the right brush was the most important task before me that day. The quality of the badger hair used in the brush determines how much water you can load into the bristles, transfer to the shaving cream and ultimately deliver to your face. Buying a bargain brush would mean less retention and more work.

In the end, I followed Charles' recommendation: Simpsons Duke 3 in Best Badger. Best Badger is the middle grade, a step above Pure Badger and below Super Badger (or Silver Tip). This brush would easily do the job of shaving my neck (if I kept my beard) or my entire face (if I did not).

Since I was buying the Simpsons brush, priced at $145, there was no point in sticking with the Muehle-Pinsel set. All of the Simpsons brushes have ivory-colored handles, so I was aesthetically bound to find an ivory-handled razor. Charles steered me toward a heavier implement in all-gold or all-chrome, believing that the extra weight, which puts the balance of the razor in the hand, would make for better control. Handling them, I agreed that the weight felt right, but my desire for the matching set led me to settle on a Warwick-handled razor in ivory with a Mach 3 head and chrome stem. This cost $100. Thus, I was equipped with a razor and brush for a total of $245--that was $85 more than I'd intended to spend on the set (and I didn't get a stand or a bowl!), and just $5 shy of what I'd expected to spend in total. And I didn't care one bit. Examining the two options in person, there really was no comparison. The Trumper razor and the Simpsons brush were far superior.

        When it came to shaving cream, Charles recommended a tube of Trumper's Extract of Limes. As soon as I asked why, he sprayed a sample of the Limes scent onto a card of paper and let me smell. It was fantastic. Just to be sure, I sampled a few other scents, but the classic Extract of Limes appealed most. In addition to the tube of cream, I bought the Extract of Limes Skin Food and Aftershave, too. These additions brought my total up to $355. And the question I was asking myself afterwards wasn't how to explain the total to my wife, but how to drive the distance from Austin to Houston more quickly so I could shave without further delay.

The hours that passed from the moment I left the shop to the time I was stationed in front of a sink of steaming water back home seemed endless and unbearable. But now the time had come for the first wet shave of my life....

 

 

 

 

ESSAYS
The Pilgrimage to Austin
The First Shave

PHOTOS
Trumper Soap & Razor
Elgydium Toothpaste
Trumper's Warwick Razor
Simpsons Duke 3 Brush
Trumper's Wetpack
Kent Military Oval Brush
Dovo Manicure Set
Duke 3 with Stand
Limes Shaving Cream
Occitane Shaving Soap

ADVICE
Shaving Graces
Charles Roberts on the Art of the Shave
The Fundamental Principles of Wet Shaving
Shaving: A Collection of Wisdom

 

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